Ho Chi Minh was perhaps Vietnam’s greatest communist revolutionary leader. He was Prime Minister and President of the the Democratic Republic of Vietnam between 1945 and 1969 and was an inspirational figure in the fight for a unified and communist Vietnam.

On his death in 1969 his body was embalmed despite his clear wishes to be cremated . Six years later In 1975 he was placed in a purpose built mausoleum in Ba Dinh Square where he has remained ever since. The imposing  granite structure is open for just three hours a day for the people of Vietnam to come and pay their respects. Of course a visit to see Ho Chi Min is now firmly on all tourists itineraries and local and visitors alike join what at times can be a lengthy queue.

At 6 am every day in front of a dozen or so respectful citizens, the national flag is hoisted over the square and the national anthem played. After this brief ceremony the mausoleum is readied for its visitors. The red carpet (actually a roll of lino) is unrolled and a canopy erected – it can easily reach 30 degrees during the summer. Visitors are allowed in from 8 am and the queue builds quickly. There may be no entrance fee but the Vietnamese take no chances with security and all bags have to go through airport style screening. The queue moves slowly but steadily and the army guards who are responsible for both security and organisation are not slow to speak sharply to those who are not moving quickly enough or who have failed to get into twos – remember primary school?

After an hour and a half we arrived at the mausoleum doors. The temperature dropped sharply as soon as we crossed the threshold. Ho Chi is kept at a steady 9 degrees. Hats had to be removed and we climbed 22 stairs  turning  right into the Presidents final resting place.

Guards were at all four corners of the room although one had the honour (?) of directly facing Ho Chi Minh for the duration of his shift. We passed by in silence – all of us unable to take our eyes of this once great man. Inevitably there were those who slowed for a more lingering look but they were firmly but politely moved on by the guards. Sixty seconds later it was over and we were back blinking in the bright April sunshine. Was the 90 minute wait worth it? Absolutely.Guards were at all four corners of the room and one had the honour (?) of facing Ho Chi Minh for the duration of his shift. We passed by in silence – all of us unable to take our eyes of this once great man. Inevitably there were those who slowed for a more lingering look but they were firmly but politely moved on by the guards. Sixty seconds later it was over and we were back blinking in the bright April sunshine. Was the 90 minute wait worth it? Absolutely. As one Australian behind me commented – you would be hard pressed to think of a Western leader who would, some 40 years after his death, command such respect that thousands of people would queue each day, sometimes for hours, for a glimpse of a man who did so much for his country.